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Gold says he uses food as a window to explore the diversity and daily rhythms of Los Angeles, both the expensive eateries and the exotic spots where immigrants search for a taste of home. And in fact, there was a better place that was a little more upscale but the ingredients were really good, and they specialized in the Hiroshima style of okonomiyaki, which is slightly different and very delicious. And this donut stand is an old-time stand on Route Gold specializes in reviewing little-known eateries in the Los Angeles area, as well as old standbys. It weighs a pound and a half.

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Aspen. Age: 30.
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GOLD: Okonomiyaki is really ugly.

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Abigail. Age: 30.
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And when it arrives, when it's presented, you're not sure if you should kill it or eat it. GOLD: Yes, there was a particular thing - a bitter melon. He's a restaurant critic whose column called "Counter Intelligence" appears in the L.

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